Overnight Alpine Summits in Teton Range

Season Summer

Difficulty Moderate - Difficult

Duration 2-3 Days

Overview

While the Grand Teton is by far the most known Peak in the Tetons, this range has a number of objectives that are equally as spectacular.  Whether it be the East Ridge of Mt. Owen, the East Face Buck Mountain or the Northwest Couloir of the Middle Teton, Jackson Hole Mountain Guides, can design an overnight climb that will accommodate any goal or skill level.

Season Summer

Elevation Gain 5000'

Trip Planner

Itinerary

Southwest Couloir 12,804′ II, 3rd class

Once the snow has melted out of the Southwest Couloir the climb to the summit becomes mostly a scramble with a few climbing moves here and there. The approach to the Southwest Couloir is long and arduous. We recommend most parties consider making an overnight of the climb and make a camp in the South Fork. Until the beginning of July this route offers steep snow climbing and great views of the Tetons. The climbing itself is not difficult but the day is long and the slopes exposed. We require participants have a snow class or equivalent experience.

Northwest Ice Couloir – Middle Teton 12,804’ II, snow/ice AI3, 5.6

During the summer months this climb transitions from snow to ice. Lying above the lower saddle, it lies in a cleft that one heads straight up, ending very close to the summit.

Buckingham Ridge-Middle Teton 12,804’ III, 5.7

The Buckingham (aka Southeast) Ridge, honoring first-ascender Bill Buckingham, is one of the Teton’s finest long classics. It features many moderate pitches of clean golden rock on a big peak. The quality, length and situation make this a real mountaineering prize for the experienced climber. It is typically done as a two-day trip with a camp in the South Fork of Garnet Canyon. Steep snow will be encountered in early to mid-season.

Northwest Couloir – 12,514′, 4th class

Most people combine the South Teton with an ascent of the Middle Teton. The approach is long and arduous so one might as well sit on two summits for the work involved. We highly recommend that you consider camping in the South Fork of Garnet Canyon and make the asent of both these great peaks an overnight affair. Be advised that early season snow may require a snow class or equivalent experience.

 

 

Southeast Ridge – 11,938’ II, 4th class

Buck Mountain’s Southeast Ridge is one of the better easy technical routes to a major Teton summit. Although not particularly difficult, it is a fine example of classic Teton mountaineering. The approach is via Stewart Draw past Timberline Lake and requires snow climbing skills until mid-season. Buck Mountain is usually done either as a long day climb or as a comfortable two-day trip. The campsite is in the timber in a boulder-scattered basin 2500 feet above the valley floor. We particularly recommend the two-day trip as a great introduction to Teton climbing for entry-level climbers, for those with families, and for those seeking a less-strenuous trip.

East Face and Ridge- Buck Mtn 11,938’ II, 4th class

Buck Mtn is the southern-most of the big granite Teton peaks. It is usually approached via the Stewart Draw and is much less traveled than the central peaks. The East Face, rising above Timberline Lake, is a straightforward snow climb in early and mid-season. A favorite alternate route is the adjacent East Ridge, a scenic technical climb combining snow with easy rock. It’s a great place for acquiring moutaineering experience in a spectacular setting. Buck Mtn is usually done either as a long day climb or as a comfortable two-day trip. The campsite is in the timber in a boulder-scattered basin 2500 feet above the valley floor. We particularly recommend the two-day trip as a great introduction to Teton climbing for entry-level climbers, for those with families, and for those seeking a less-strenuous trip.

Koven/East Ridge – Mt Owen 12,928’ II, 5.4-5.6

Mt Owen is second only to the Grand Teton in elevation and many consider it to be a more difficult peak. Two rewarding routes, the Koven and the East Ridge, offer the moderately experienced climber the best in classic mountaineering. Because the routes are the same up to the summit formation, they are included together. The East Ridge tackles Mt. Owen’s summit via rock that is a bit more challenging than the line the Koven Route follows to the top. Snow climbing skills are required for much of the season to negotiate steep snowfields and couloirs. The routes enter the fascinating cirque of the Teton Glacier and the views of the North Face of the Grand are very impressive. Mt Owen is ascended on a two-day trip with a camp carried high into Glacier Gulch. The second day is usually long and strenuous; a second night at camp is not required but recommended.

Price For 2-day South Teton, Middle Teton and Buck Mtn:$870 private 1:1; $750pp/for 2; $600pp/for three

 

Mt. Owen 3-Day Price: $2100 private, $1425 per person in group of two if descending on third day.

Please note that because of scheduling, this adventure cannot be booked online.  Please click here to inquire about spe5cific dates for your trip.7

Group pricing is for 2 – 3 people on a trip. We will match you with other interested participants on “group” trips. Please note that trips must reach minimum # of people.

Please read through our policies by visiting this page.

Grand Teton National Park is located roughly 30 minutes from our Jackson, WY headquarters. Our Jackson office is located in the south part of Jackson at 1325 S. Highway 89, Suite 104 and shares a parking area with Smith’s. Our phone number is (800) 239-7642 or (307) 733-4979. Most trips and classes will meet at this office for gear checks, preparation, and classes. The Jackson Hole airport is the closest, but Idaho Falls (a 2 – 2.5 hour drive) is a cheaper option and Salt Lake City (4 – 5 hour drive) are also air travel options. It is helpful to arrive a couple of days prior to your trip/class in order to acclimatize. Otherwise, you should arrive the day before and stop by our office for an equipment check. Do not plan on traveling the day after a significant climb – you will be tired and there are no guaranteed times when we will return to the trailhead. Plan on having accommodations for the night prior to and the night you return from a significant climb. There are a plethora of hotels, motels, and bed and breakfasts in Jackson and the surrounding area. Accommodations near our office make your transitions convenient. It is highly advisable to make reservations as early as possible. Lodging recommendations and many more details can be found in the downloadable document below.

 

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Sitting on the eastern edge of the Great Basin, the north-south-trending Tetons rise dramatically from the floor of Jackson Hole without any foothills along an active fault-block mountain front system. Because it forms one of the first tall barriers to moisture sweeping eastward from the Pacific Ocean, much of the range’s precipitation falls as snow during winter and spring, but summers and fall are generally dry and pleasant, with the always-present possibility of thunderstorms.

The local climate is semi-arid with a yearly extreme high of 93 °F and extreme low of -46 °F. The coldest temperature ever recorded in Grand Teton National Park was -63 °F, and snow often blankets the landscape from early November to late April. Jackson Hole has long, cold winters. The first heavy snows fall by the beginning of November and continue through March. Snow and frost are possible during any month. By May and June, mild days and cool nights alternate with rain and occasional snow. Valley trails are snow covered until late May. Warm days and cool nights prevail during July and August, with afternoon thundershowers common. In autumn, sunny days and cold nights alternate with rain and occasional snow storms.

Footwear

Our multi-day trips expand a variety of different types of terrain.  If you have questions about footwear, please contact our office and we will answer all of your questions.

Lightweight Mountaineering Boot – Trips in the Tetons before mid-July and those including  extensive snow climbing (e.g. Gannett, Granite, )   require a lightweight mountaineering boot  NOT a plastic boot.

Upper Layers
Bottom Layers
Accessories
  • Hat: lightweight to medium weight warm hat – sleek enough to be worn under a helmet
  • Gloves: 2 Pair – one lightweight pair and  to medium weight pair – Synthetic but able to belay and have good dexterity. Guide Pick: Mountain Hardwear Hydra Lite Gloves
  • Gaiters: only until mid-July
On the trail
  • Large Pack- Internal frame only 70L+ Minumum for 5-6 day trips – Guide Pick: Mountain Hardwear- South Col 70 Outdry .
  • Medium  Pack -Internal frame only,  50L+ for 2-4 day trips. Guide Pick: Mountain Hardwear Directissima 50
  • Small Summit Packs – For 2 and 3 day technical multi-day trips (Grand/Cathedral Traverse) Must be large enough to fit all your personal gear plus ten pounds of food and water. Some trips will require an additional small summit pack for Technical Rock Climbs or summit days – Guide pick: Mountain Harwdwear Summit Rocket 30
  • Water Bottles (2-3 L/Qt.) or H2O hydration system
  • Water Treatment tablets
  • Lightweight Bowl
  • Insulated Mug
  • Spoon and Fork
  • Stuff Sacks: zip lock bags
  • Dark Sunglasses
  • Extra Contact Lenses
  • Sun Hat or Visor
  • Sunscreen (35+SPF)
  • Lip Balm
  • Headlamp and Fresh Batteries
  • First Aid – minimal: blister care, analgesic, etc.
  • Lunch, snacks & drink mix
  • Misc Items: minimal: light knife, camera,
    buff, camp suds, wash cloth, etc.
Some trips require (please inquire with JHMG):
Recommended & Optional Items
  • Trekking Poles
  • Camera and batteries, spare memory card
  • Insoles: custom or after market
  • Bear Spray
  • Insect Repellent (Ask the office if this is necessary)
  • Headnet (Ask the office if this is necessary)
  • Camp Shoe – lightweight
Cold Weather Considerations:

Early and late season temperatures require warmer clothing. You may consider additional clothing if you get cold easily or if it is unusually cold or windy.

  • Buff or neck gaiter
  • Extra down vest or jacket
  • Expedition weight long underwear
  • Extra gloves

**Jackson Hole Mountain Guides supplies all the rock climbing gear, harnesses, helmets, locking carabiners & belay/rappel devices, crampons, and ice axes. However, you are welcome to bring your own equipment. Please coordinate with our office for gear checks. Backpacks, rock shoes, and boots can all be rented & purchased in our Jackson office.

For your safety and comfort, bring synthetic and or natural fiber clothing for insulation. Cotton
is NOT recommended and down must be kept dry. Clothing should be able to layer without
encumbering movement.

Testimonials

  • JHMG is an amazing organization. They listen to what I want in a trip experience then seek to take it one step bigger & better.

    — Mike Long
  • JHMG will teach you what you desire and create exceptional moments in the mountain setting.

    — Ryan Hoynacki
  • My experiences with JHMG have been uniformly outstanding.   Each guide that has worked with me over the years has taken a genuine interest in helping me advance my climbing.  The levels of professionalism, expertise, and interest in teaching among the guides I have worked with has been top-notch.

    — David Matthews
  • My experiences with JHMG have been uniformly outstanding. Each guide that has worked with me over the years has taken a genuine interest in helping me advance my climbing. The levels of professionalism, expertise, and interest in teaching among the guides I have worked with has been top-notch.

    — David Matthews

Talk To Us

Here you’ll find online tools and information about joining us for a trip of a lifetime! To sign up for a trip, or if you have any questions, please call us. Listed on the left side of these pages are links that you may find useful, including printable forms and policies concerning a trip with JHMG. We encourage ALL prospective climbers to read our Preparation advice. Our office can help place you with others who are looking to climb.

By Phone 800.239.7642

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