Rising dramatically from Jackson and Leigh Lakes, Mt. Moran is the most striking mountain in the northern Tetons. From Jackson Lake Lodge, it is one of the most picturesque mountains in North America. It is a unique and remote climbing experience. Since there are no maintained trails to the base of the mountain the approach is made by canoe. In early summer we climb the Skillet Glacier, an elegant snow climb leading directly to the summit. Once the snow melts and the rock dries out, we change to the CMC route, a classic rock route on the southeast face.
For the ultimate wilderness mountaineering experience, consider Mt. Moran’s dramatic Direct South Buttress, described in Steve Roper and Allen Steck’s Fifty Classic Climbs of North America. For a moderate, yet strikingly beautiful, route to this imposing summit, Mt. Moran’s CMC route is an excellent choice. Mt. Owen, one of the most spectacular of the Teton summits, offers many fine alpine ascents, including the highly recommended Koven and East Ridge routes. Let us help you choose one best suited to your ability and enthusiasm.
CMC Route- Mt Moran 12,605’ II, 5.5
The favored summer rock route is the CMC, a long moderate technical climb. On the first day, we canoe across Leigh Lake then hike up the steep slopes to the stunning CMC camp, one of the best sites in the range. The climbing route is complex and time consuming so a second night is spent at the camp before returning to the valley on the third day.
Skillet Glacier – Mt Moran 12,605’ II, snow/ice AI2+
The Skillet Glacier is a remarkable feature that provides a moderate snow and ice route up the massive Mt Moran. Best done in early season, this unique route is a fine challenge for those seeking a to broaden their experience on a big mountain snow route. It’s also the most efficient way to climb Moran. On day one, we use canoes to cross Jackson Lake and hike 2,900 feet up a wild drainage to camp on the glacier’s moraine. The next morning, sustained snow climbing up to 50 degrees leads directly to the summit. On the last day we descend the mountain and canoe home.
Northeast Ridge – Mt Moran 12,605’ II, 5.4
Big, rugged Mt Moran is the dominant peak of the northern Tetons. With no maintained trails access is by canoe, making a unique climbing experience. The Northeast Ridge is in wild county across Jackson Lake and offers an easy but long technical climb far from the crowds. It’s a fine way to sample traditional Teton mountaineering on one of America’s great mountains.
Mount Moran Summit Experience: Price: $2100 private; $1425 per person in group of two.
Please note that because of scheduling this trip cannot be booked online. Please click here to inquire about specific dates for your adventure. Group pricing is for 2 people on a trip. We will match you with other interested participants on “group” trips.
Please read through our policies by visiting this page.
Grand Teton National Park is located roughly 30 minutes from our Jackson, WY headquarters. Our Jackson office is located in the south part of Jackson at 1325 S. Highway 89, Suite 104 and shares a parking area with Smith’s. Our phone number is (800) 239-7642 or (307) 733-4979. Most trips and classes will meet at this office for gear checks, preparation, and classes. The Jackson Hole airport is the closest, but Idaho Falls (a 2 – 2.5 hour drive) is a cheaper option and Salt Lake City (4 – 5 hour drive) are also air travel options. It is helpful to arrive a couple of days prior to your trip/class in order to acclimatize. Otherwise, you should arrive the day before and stop by our office for an equipment check. Do not plan on traveling the day after a significant climb – you will be tired and there are no guaranteed times when we will return to the trailhead. Plan on having accommodations for the night prior to and the night you return from a significant climb. There are a plethora of hotels, motels, and bed and breakfasts in Jackson and the surrounding area. Accommodations near our office make your transitions convenient. It is highly advisable to make reservations as early as possible. Lodging recommendations and many more details can be found in the downloadable document below.
Sitting on the eastern edge of the Great Basin, the north-south-trending Tetons rise dramatically from the floor of Jackson Hole without any foothills along an active fault-block mountain front system. Because it forms one of the first tall barriers to moisture sweeping eastward from the Pacific Ocean, much of the range’s precipitation falls as snow during winter and spring, but summers and fall are generally dry and pleasant, with the always-present possibility of thunderstorms.
The local climate is semi-arid with a yearly extreme high of 93 °F and extreme low of -46 °F. The coldest temperature ever recorded in Grand Teton National Park was -63 °F, and snow often blankets the landscape from early November to late April. Jackson Hole has long, cold winters. The first heavy snows fall by the beginning of November and continue through March. Snow and frost are possible during any month. By May and June, mild days and cool nights alternate with rain and occasional snow. Valley trails are snow covered until late May. Warm days and cool nights prevail during July and August, with afternoon thundershowers common. In autumn, sunny days and cold nights alternate with rain and occasional snow storms.
Our multi-day trips expand a variety of different types of terrain. If you have questions about footwear, please contact our office and we will answer all of your questions.
Lightweight Mountaineering Boot – Trips in the Tetons before mid-July and those including extensive snow climbing (e.g. Gannett, Granite, ) require a lightweight mountaineering boot NOT a plastic boot.
- Guide Pick: (Early Season) Salewa Crow GTX
- Guide Pick: (Mid-Late Season Gannett or Granite) Salewa Mountain Trainer
- Guide Pick (Mid-Late Season Technical Multi Day) Salewa Firetail 3 GTX and ask if your objective might require technical rock shoes
- 4 pair of wool socks and blister prevention
- Synthetic/Wool Long Underwear Top Guide Pick:Mountain Hardwear Butterman Hooded
- Synthetic T-shirt – Guide Pick: Mountain Hardwear AC Shirt
- Insulating Jacket: lightweight down or synthetic – Guide Pick: Mountain Hardwear Dynotherm Jacket
- Soft Shell: fleece or pile
- Rain Jacket: waterproof/breathable with hood. Guide Pick: Mountain Hardwear Quasar Light Jacket
- Synthetic/Wool Long Underwear Bottom
- Hiking Short or Pant for approach
- Synthetic Climbing Pant – Guide Pick: Mountain Hardwear- Super Chockstone Pant
- Rain Pant – Guide Pick: Mountain Hardwear Exponent Pant
- Hat: lightweight to medium weight warm hat – sleek enough to be worn under a helmet
- Gloves: 2 Pair – one lightweight pair and to medium weight pair – Synthetic but able to belay and have good dexterity. Guide Pick: Mountain Hardwear Hydra Lite Gloves
- Gaiters: only until mid-July
On the trail
- Large Pack- Internal frame only 70L+ Minumum for 5-6 day trips – Guide Pick: Mountain Hardwear- South Col 70 Outdry .
- Medium Pack -Internal frame only, 50L+ for 2-4 day trips. Guide Pick: Mountain Hardwear Directissima 50
- Small Summit Packs – For 2 and 3 day technical multi-day trips (Grand/Cathedral Traverse) Must be large enough to fit all your personal gear plus ten pounds of food and water. Some trips will require an additional small summit pack for Technical Rock Climbs or summit days – Guide pick: Mountain Harwdwear Summit Rocket 30
- Water Bottles (2-3 L/Qt.) or H2O hydration system
- Water Treatment tablets
- Lightweight Bowl
- Insulated Mug
- Spoon and Fork
- Stuff Sacks: zip lock bags
- Dark Sunglasses
- Extra Contact Lenses
- Sun Hat or Visor
- Sunscreen (35+SPF)
- Lip Balm
- Headlamp and Fresh Batteries
- First Aid – minimal: blister care, analgesic, etc.
- Lunch, snacks & drink mix
- Misc Items: minimal: light knife, camera,
buff, camp suds, wash cloth, etc.
Some trips require (please inquire with JHMG):
- Sleeping Bag: 20 degree – Guide Pick: Mountain Hardwear ExtraLamina +20 Sleeping Bag
- Sleeping Pad: Closed-cell foam or Thermarest
Recommended & Optional Items
- Trekking Poles
- Camera and batteries, spare memory card
- Insoles: custom or after market
- Bear Spray
- Insect Repellent (Ask the office if this is necessary)
- Headnet (Ask the office if this is necessary)
- Camp Shoe – lightweight
Cold Weather Considerations:
Early and late season temperatures require warmer clothing. You may consider additional clothing if you get cold easily or if it is unusually cold or windy.
- Buff or neck gaiter
- Extra down vest or jacket
- Expedition weight long underwear
- Extra gloves
**Jackson Hole Mountain Guides supplies all the rock climbing gear, harnesses, helmets, locking carabiners & belay/rappel devices, crampons, and ice axes. However, you are welcome to bring your own equipment. Please coordinate with our office for gear checks. Backpacks, rock shoes, and boots can all be rented & purchased in our Jackson office.
For your safety and comfort, bring synthetic and or natural fiber clothing for insulation. Cotton
is NOT recommended and down must be kept dry. Clothing should be able to layer without
Talk To Us
Here you’ll find online tools and information about joining us for a trip of a lifetime! To sign up for a trip, or if you have any questions, please call us. Listed on the left side of these pages are links that you may find useful, including printable forms and policies concerning a trip with JHMG. We encourage ALL prospective climbers to read our Preparation advice. Our office can help place you with others who are looking to climb.